Gezelligheid in Amsterdam

It's no secret that I love Amsterdam. But when people ask me what it is that I love so much, I find it difficult to articulate. I mean, I could tell them how charming the canals and narrow winding streets are, how there are times when you literally feel like you've stepped back in time, how warm and welcoming the Dutch people are, how diverse and international the city feels (145 ethnicities according to my guide book), or how good the chocolate really is - they are considered the best chocolatiers in the world for a reason. But none of this truly captures what it is that I love so much (although I do love all those things).

Well it just so happens that the Dutch have a word, gezelligheid (pronounced "khuh ZEL ikh hide"), that sums if up perfectly, in fact some say that it sums up the heart of Dutch culture perfectly. Unfortunately for us English speakers, there is no translation for gezelligheid in English. According to Wikipedia "depending on context, [gezelligheid] can be translated as convivial, cosy, fun, quaint, or nice atmosphere, but can also connote belonging, time spent with loved ones, the fact of seeing a friend after a long absence, or general togetherness." It's the second definition that resonates with me the most. When I think of Amsterdam I think of belonging and general togetherness. Somehow, despite it's size and incredible diversity, when you walk around Amsterdam you feel like you are part of a small community, bound by a love for, and appreciation of, the small things in life.

So that's what this post is about, the small things in life, Amsterdam-style.

Restaurants and street food

The eating in Amsterdam is good and varied. The diversity of the city is reflected in the diversity of food options. Walk around Leidsplein for ten minutes and you will encounter food from nearly twenty different countries. Some say the Indonesian food is the best outside of Indonesia, but it can be expensive. If you're on a budget St. Paul's Cafe (Gravenstraat 24-B) is a great option. Amsterdam has a fine selection of high-end restaurants, none of which I have been too. My travel budget doesn't usually allow it, plus, I love "street food." My favorite meals on this visit to Amsterdam included a Turkish pizza from this little place on Nieuwezijds Kolk (very close to a great shop selling organic clothing), hot mulled wine and Dutch donuts while wandering around Leidsplein, and these damn sausage rolls - too good for words! More about those later.

But I do have one restaurant recommendation: Van Puffelen (375-377 Prinsengracht). We found this place on our last night in Amsterdam and really enjoyed it. Van Puffelen is located in two adjoining canal houses, which makes it spacious (a rarity in Amsterdam) and as such good for groups. The menu is modern and fresh, with good vegetarian options. In addition to bread, they bring each table a plate of fries (the Dutch love patat frites) with (canal)housemade mayonnaise. Our table tried a variety of things, and loved it all, my favorite was the tomato and red pepper soup.

Sweets, chocolate, and pastry

There is no denying the Dutch have a natural talent for chocolate, pastry and all things sweet. Look for a banketbakkerij (patisserie), not be confused with a bakkerij (bakery) when you are craving something sweet. Because I was only in Amsterdam for a few days this time, I only got to visit two of the many banketbakkerij that dot the city, but these two, Lanskroon and Patisserie Holkamp, are two of the best.  

Lanskroon (Singel 385)

The Dunselman family has been in the bakery business for over a century. But Lanskroon, owned and operated by Claudia Dunselman, is a bakery, patisserie, and tearoom all in one. The perfect place to grab something sweet and an espresso on your afternoon stroll, which is exactly what we did. The menu is full of classic Dutch desserts - think lots of fruits and berries, almond paste, and spice blends. 

We hadn't eaten lunch yet that afternoon, so we started with a couple of their savory pastries - a ham and cheese croissant (messy but very good) and a sausage roll. The sausage rolls are simply delicious, as you'll see below I tried one at both places, I just love them. For something sweet we had a generous slice of raspberry cake, which had a very thin layer of cake lying underneath nearly three inches of sweet raspberry goodness (if you follow the link above to their website the raspberry cake appears in the slideshow on their home page).

Everything was so good that I had to take a few things with me, for this I asked the woman behind the counter (who I now hope was Claudia herself) for advice. She sent me home with a Dutch style croissant (i.e., sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar) and a special Dutch honey cookie. Perhaps it's no surprise they were both delicious!

Patisserie Holkamp (Vijzelgracht 15)

Patisserie Holkamp is probably the best known banketbakkerij in Amsterdam. The assortment here is wide, from tarte tatin and lemon meringue to classic Dutch desserts like stroopkoeken (syrup cookies) and amandelkrullen (almond curls - very much like the French tuille), chocolate truffles and bonbons, and the most delicious savory pastries I've ever had. The sausage roll here was spectacular, but they are most famous for their croquettes - we recommend the shrimp. For me, the best sweet treat on the menu is the Salentino - "a layer of apricot puree under a triangular almond cake, covered in dark chocolate and with a top layer of caramelized almonds." Holkamp is also a great place to pick up something for those back home - I grabbed a few bags of the chocolate perils (think gourmet M&M's) as gifts for my office mates. 

Brown cafés

Brown cafés are to Amsterdam what pubs are to London - casual, neighborhood drinking holes, usually quite small with limited seating, lots of dark wood, and good conversation. They are called brown cafés because of the dark wood, and smoke-stained walls. In fact, despite Amsterdam's ban on indoor smoking, some brown cafés still allow smoking. The food menu is usually small and don't expect a large wine selection, local beer and Dutch jenever rule the menu. You can also expect to see a furry feline roaming about or lounging on the bar.   

Café Chris (Bloemstraat 42)

Open since 1624, Café Chris is the oldest bar in the Jordaan district of Amsterdam. (Non-smokers beware, smoking is allowed here.) The atmosphere is pretty incredible, my favorite part involves the men's toilet. Men relieve themselves in what looks like a very small closet and then pull a cord as they exit - water then rushes through exposed pipes running throughout the bar for all to hear. Perhaps it's immature but I couldn't help but giggle each time. The only downside to Café Chris is that because it has been open for nearly 400 years it is a bit of a tourist trap, but there were plenty of locals when we were there and it doesn't exactly attract the type of tourist that most find annoying.

De Pieper (Prinsengracht 424)

Also open since the 17th-century (1665), De Pieper is my favorite brown café. Located where two canals (Prinsengracht and Leidsegracht) intersect, the people watching is superb. They have an extensive wine selection for a brown café, with a nice house wine at a great price. For a non-beer drinker like myself this is a real plus. They also had outdoor seating in January, which we appreciated since the weather was quite mild when we were there. I think I visited De Pieper three times on this visit, one night we just sat back, drank lots of wine, and shared lots of laughs - gezelligheid.

Coffee shops

I'm not going to say too much about coffee shops, except to explain what exactly they are and recommend a few for those interested. First, in the Netherlands, personal possession of small quantities of marijuana is decriminalized if bought at a licensed establishment, a.k.a., a coffeeshop. Technically you are only allowed to smoke in a coffee shop or a personal residence. In addition to the obvious, coffee shops also sell non-alcoholic beverages and sometimes snacks. Remember that 5 grams is the maximum amount of marijuana you are legally allowed to possess at one time. Smoking cigarettes and wearing sunglasses (and sometimes hats) are forbidden.

There are a lot of coffee shops in Amsterdam - hundreds. Many are tourist traps and each has its own vibe. Don't expect many locals - coffee shops are mostly for tourists. In fact, the Netherlands is currently in the process of banning the sale of marijuana to tourists. The ban is being phased in and should not take effect in Amsterdam until early 2013 - many suggest the ban will end before then. Nonetheless, if you find yourself in Amsterdam, are legally allowed to smoke and are so inclined I have a few recommendations. For a very laid back atmosphere, close to the central train station and lots of the action, I recommend The Doors. If you are looking for a diverse and young crowd, Mellow Yellow is a good choice. And finally, near Leidsplein, Dampkring is my favorite. The atmosphere is relaxed, the music and cappuccino good, and the menu selection superb. Dampkring also has a resident kitty that roams around rubbing up against the patrons.

Well that's my version of gezelligheid in Amsterdam. The places that helped me create those little moments in life, shared with good friends, that you carry with you for a lifetime. I do love Amsterdam.